MAX IV Modifications
These are some of the custom modifications I've done to my 1996 MAX IV
(You can enlarge most any photo by clicking on it)


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MAX IV

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Front Suspension Seat
Suspension Seat Here is the finished suspension seat. This is the single greatest modification I added to my MAX. It greatly added to the comfort during a ride for the driver. I have since added some padding to the tops of the wheel wells on each side. The only disadvantage to this modification is it now is essentially a 3 seater. This is offset by the benefit of added legroom in the rear as you can now stretch your legs out on both sides of the seat. The seat is quick detachable without tools along with the floorboards. The seat is the type used on tractors and such. It was purchased at Great Plains/Northern Hydraulics for a little over a $100.
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Floorboards with seat removed The seat is removable by simply pulling four hitch pin clips from the four posts. I took four " bolts with the threads cut off and welded the heads to a piece of angle iron. I then bolted the angle iron to the bottom of the seat. The four bolts (now just pins) align with the four pipes you see now and slip inside. I drilled holes through each post and inserted hitch pin clips to retain the pins in the pipes. The floorboard simply fits over the four posts. This allows quick access to the chains and axles without tools in seconds.
(click picture to enlarge)

Seat brackets with floor removed The brackets were made out of " iron pipe welded to some scraps of light duty channel and then bolted to the inside of the two frame rails. Simple and sturdy. An angle drill sure is handy for drilling the frame rails.
(click picture to enlarge)


Rear Seat Toolbox
Rear seat toolbox The underseat storage was the easiest of the modifications I made. It took at most a half-hour of actual work time. Basically it's the bottom portion of a plastic toolbox I purchased at my local True Value Hardware Store. It was SKU# 639-762 if you go to a True Value. I measured the inside of the seat frame and found a toolbox that fit perfectly in the space. I just removed the top and sawed off the hinges and latch.

I then screwed it to the underside of the frame and remounted the seat bottom using tee hinges as you can see in the picture. I made it so the seat is a friction fit and tucks under the seat back to hold it closed. Seems to work great. I drilled some small holes in the corners of the box in case I get caught in the rain. This didn't interfere with the placement of the original battery either. If fact I replace the small garden tractor size battery with a deep cycle marine battery and still found enough room. There is a lot of wasted space in the Max that can be better utilized.

(click picture to enlarge)


Front Bumper/ Winch Mount
Front Bumper & Winch The front bumper / winch mount was made of 1-1/4" black iron pipe. I bent it to match the contour of the front of the MAX by heating it in the appropriate places and bending. I temporarily removed the roll cage and welded extensions to both the front and rear side rails. I just matched the angle iron already used and extended both ends. The reason for the rear extension will become apparent in the next modification.

I then welded additional angle iron to each end of the previous bent pipe and shaped as pictured. This allows you to remove and assemble the bumper as a separate piece. The winch mount is simply a plate welded to the top of the bumper and laps onto the front lip of the max and bolts there also. I welded two heavy-duty rope hooks on either side and matched up one hole in each with an existing hole already in the MAX. This added even more to the strength. It's proved to be quite rugged so far and has taken a great deal of punishment. I think it's a much better arrangement than bolting the winch to just the plastic body.

(click picture to enlarge)


Rear Cargo Rack
Rear Cargo Rack This is my version of a rear cargo rack. Onto the two extensions to the roll cage rails I mentioned above I also welded four " pins sticking up about 3". The four " iron pipe legs of the rack slip over top of those four pins. The rack is held down in place by two heavy-duty bungee cords permanently attached to the rack at one end. This allows some flex to the arrangement in case of contact with trees and such. A feature that has come in mighty handy. The frame of the rack is just welded up angle iron. The slats were sawn out of treated lumber, planed and the edges beveled. To remove the rack, just unhook the two bungees and lift off the rack.
(click picture to enlarge)


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